When I had the 685cc upgrade done on my motor, the shop removed and capped the Air Injection System port. The AIS is part of the emissions control equipment required by California, and since I don’t live in California, loosing this port is not a big issue. Since the AIS port is already blocked off, it kind of makes the rest of the AIS equipment extraneous, so off it goes. As with many things on this build, it’s time to turn to Google to see what they know about this subject. A quick search and I found this page: CLICK It covers everything one needs to know about removing the California emissions equipment from a KLR.
Even if the AIS port had not been blocked off, I probably would have removed the emissions equipment. The parts were taking up valuable real estate that I needed to repurpose.
Eastern Beaver PC-8 Fuse Box
With all of the extra electronics I’m going to be running, I decided it was a good idea to have a secondary fuse box. Enter the Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse box. It allows me to connect 8 devices to the bike. Circuits 1 – 6 are switched, so they only receive power when the bike is on. Circuits 7 & 8 have power all the time. Each circuit is individually fused too, which is nice.
Since all of my new electrical accessories are going to be mounted on the dash, it made sense to put the PC-8 there.
The PC-8 is the green PCB mounted in the top right corner. I didn’t want to drill through my dash to bolt the PC-8 in place, so I used a couple of strips of double sided 3M heavy duty outdoor foam tape. We’ll see how well it holds up. The black box to the left of the PC-8 is part of the stock electronics for the bike. I used the 3M tape to mount it also.
My current configuration for the PC-8 is:
- Vapor dash
- Garmin GPS
- Heated Grips
- Powerlet outlet for heated gear
- Volt meter & USB charging port
I also picked up a small air compressor today, so I’ll be wiring a lead for that into one of the unswitched circuits.
Vapor Dash & Thermo-Bob 3
The installation of the Trail Tech Vapor dash was pretty straight forward. There are several inputs required to get full functionality out of the dash. First is a speedometer, then engine temp, and finally RPM. Trail Tech included a bolt with a magnetic head for use with the speedometer. Just remove one of the bolts from the front rotor and mount the sensor in the right place on the front fork tube and we’re in business. The tachometer is pretty easy to install too. All that is required is to wrap a lead around the spark plug wire and zip-tie it in place.
The engine temp gauge took a little bit more work. Before we get to that though, lets talk about the Thermo-Bob 3.
Most vehicles that are water cooled have a bypass circuit that allows the coolant (and the engine) to get up to temp before the coolant starts flowing through the radiator. The KLR does not have a bypass circuit. Coolant is flowing through the radiator as soon as the bike is started. That means low temp coolant is going into the bottom of the motor and high temp coolant is coming out of the top. This temperature difference can cause issues with engine life.
Enter the Thermo-Bob 3. This upgrade adds a bypass circuit to the KLR’s cooling loop. Once installed, the coolant uses the bypass until engine temp reaches 180F. After 180F, the Thermo-Bob opens up and coolant cycles through the radiator, just like pretty much every other liquid cooled vehicle on the road.
Another nice addition to the Thermo-Bob is that it has an auxiliary port which happens to be just the right size for the Vapor’s temp sensor.
One thing about the 658cc upgrade is that it requires some carburetor work. More displacement means the engine needs more fuel and air. Once this upgrade is done, there is no going back as it requires opening up a hole in the carburetor. I had been contemplating putting this off until after I had her back together and successfully running, but I figured what the hell, lets do this.
My 685cc kit came with a KLX carb kit from FMF. The KLX kit had everything I needed to make this upgrade a success. I still Googled it and found a video though. You can check it out HERE for part 1 and HERE for part 2.
I forgot to take pics of this part, but basically, I opened the top of the carb and disassembled it. In the middle of the slide is a hole for the needle, and next to the needle hole is a smaller hole. I used the included 7/64″ drill bit to open this hole up a bit. Once that was done, I installed the KLX needle and reassembled the top of the carb.
The second part of the this mod is to adjust a set screw on the bottom of the carb. The screw has a tamper seal over it. The only way to access the screw is to drill out the tamper seal and pull it out.
Once the tamper seal is out, I just adjusted the set screw as instructed and reinstalled the carb on the bike. Well, almost. I do have one last thing to do on the carb.
The KLR uses a manual choke and in stock form there is a cable that runs from the carb to the left side of the handlebar. I decided to ditch that cable and install a new choke, one that’s mounted on the carb itself.
IMS 10 Gal Fuel Tank
The last big item to install is my 10 gallon fuel tank. I completely spaced on taking pictures for this, but it’s really not that difficult. IMS’s instructions could be better though. There were several typo’s, steps were missing and the pictures were poor. As usual, I tried to find a video that covered the installation of this tank, but I struck out. I was able to figure it out eventually though and the tank is now properly mounted in its new home.
On the Road Again!
Now that the tank is on, it’s time to fill it with some fuel and see if she’ll fire up. I was pretty apprehensive about this part, but as they say, the proof is in the pudding.
One last check, oil is good. Coolant is full. Battery is properly connected and putting out 12VDC. Fuel and vacuum lines to the carb are good. Ok lets fire her up. She cranks fine, but wont fire. Crap, what did I forget?
One more look around and oh yeah. It helps if I turn on the fuel.
Lets try this again. Crank, crank, crank. Damn, she still won’t fire up. Hmm, what is it this time? Oh yeah, the choke…
Ok, 3rd time is the charm. And she fires up with out any drama this time! YAY! She’s alive!
After some more checks to make sure I didn’t miss anything else, it’s time for a quick run to the gas station to fill up. By now it was getting late and I decided to hold off until the morning for our maiden road trip.
I’m amazed that Overkill is running, pretty much on the first try. I figured there would be more tuning and troubleshooting involved, but I guess every once in a while things do go right on the first try. Still I didn’t want to press my luck too much so our first jaunt was a relatively short 75 mile’s. And she did great. There are just a few minor tweaks that I need to do, but other than that, she’s pretty much done.
Before and After
Thanks for following along as I built Overkill the KLR. Stick around, there is more to come. I didn’t go through all of this just for the hell of it. My trip up to Alaska, then south to the southern tip of South America begins in just over a month. There will be more updates between now and then though. I’ve also got a road trip or two in the works and they will be posted here too. Be sure to sign up for my mailing list to get the latest updates.