Handlebars & Handguards
While there’s noting wrong with the stock handlebars, I decided to swap the stock ones out with a bar from Protaper. The Protaper bar has a higher bend profile which will make standing up easier. I also added a pair of 2″ Rox risers, heated hand grips and a pair of Warp 9 folding levers. To round out the handlebar setup I picked up a set of Highway Dirt Bike NexGen hand guards with integrated mirrors.
Installing the hand grips is pretty straight forward. I trimmed them to the correct length, then slid them into place on the handlebars and positioned them so that the power cables do not interfere with any of the controls. The kit also includes a controller and a mounting bracket. The bracket is designed to be bolted straight to the clutch assembly, but I chose to mount the controller on my Lynx dash.
The Lynx dashboard is still a work in progress, and I’ll cover it in more detail once I get it completed.
The handguards are a little bit trickier. First on the list is to install the threaded handlebar insert that the handguards bolt too. Fortunately, HDB was kind enough to include the appropriate tap for cutting the threads inside of the handlebars. Once the threads were cut, I screwed the HDB insert into the handlebars and loosely bolted the handguard frame to the insert.
Looking at the parts, it’s pretty obvious how the handguards are supposed to go together. Once the parts are on the bike though, it takes some finessing to get everything to line up and bolt together. I found that working from the outside in, towards the triple tree worked best. After more time that I’d like to admit, I was able to get everything lined up and properly secured.
And here we see the completed setup, with the handguards, heated grips and the HDB mirrors. The jury is still out on the mirrors. At first look, I’m not sure how well they will work. I’ll have to get out and ride a bit to see if they are any good.
The black box on the top left corner of the dash is the hand grip heater controller. The bracket at the top center of the dash is for my Garmin GPS. A Trail Tech Vapor gauge cluster rounds out the major dash components. I’ve also installed a 2 port USB charger and a volt meter on the dash. They are hiding behind the Protaper foam pad.
Do the Doo, Part Deux
Remember way back in part 2 of this build I mentioned that I had screwed up while reassembling the left side of my motor? When I was torquing the rotor in place, the Woodruff key slipped out of place and the rotor sheared off about a quarter of the key. The fix was easy enough. Use a Dremel to grind the key out and install a new key.
It turns out that finding a 5/16″ x 5/32″ Woodruff key is the hard part. I ended up calling 4 or 5 hardware stores before I found a place that stocked these things. I eventually found them at a True Value hardware store about 2 miles from my house. $0.47 later and I was in business!
In order to protect the engine internals, I covered everything with some paper towels and set to work with my Dremel.
After a couple of minutes of grinding, I was able to tap the damaged key out of the slot with a screw driver.
Not wanting a repeat performance, I used my handy dandy screw driver and a hammer to punch out the edges of the new key. This time it’s going to stay where I put it.
The key stayed in place this time, yay me.
Once the rotor was properly torqued down, I installed new gaskets on the castings and closed the left side up. Hopefully I won’t have to open it up for a long, long time.
Skid Plate and Center Stand
Now that the engine work is done, I can install my skid plate and center stand. The skid plate was sourced from Happy Trails. They call it their “Tougher than Hell” skid plate and it definitely looks the part. The sides use 3/16″ aluminum plates. The bottom plate is 3/8″ thick. The setup also includes an “impact kit” which consists of 2 thin pieces of rubber and one thick piece of foam rubber. The two thin pieces of rubber go between the skid plate and the bottom of the frame rails. The thick foam rubber piece is sandwiched between the skid plate and the bottom of the motor.
Installation is easy enough. There is one U-bolt in the front that goes around the frame, and 4 clamps (2 on each side) at the rear of the plate.
The plate also has a nice big hole in the bottom for oil changes. And they were even nice enough to include a hole on the side for adjusting the doohickey.
Installation of the center stand was pretty simple too. The first step was to remove the foot peg brackets and ditch the screws. Next I bolted the center stand brackets in place between the frame and the foot pegs with the supplied bolts. Then all that was left was to attach the spring.
My only real complaint about the center stand is that the foot lever is very small and not easy to get too. I may have a plate welded to the bottom of the lever for easier access.
More to Come
This build is starting to wind down, but I’ve still got a few things left to do:
- Wire in my Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse box
- Connect all the required inputs to my Vapor gauge cluster
- Figure out what I’m going to do with the stock electronics that where mounted to the stock front faring
- Mount front wheel fender on fork brace
- Install chain oiler
- Install home brew tail tidy
- Install new turn signals
- Install Thermo-bob 3
- Install IMS 10gal fuel tank
- Install Seat Concepts seat
Eventually she’ll be fully assembled and I can finally go for a ride!