Since I posted KLR Overkill Conclusion: Part 5, I’ve spent a lot of time riding Overkill. Over 3,300 miles in about 3 weeks actually. In that time I’ve learned a few things, had a few mishaps, and figured out a few tweaks. In no particular order, here is a list of the adjustments I’ve made of the the last week or so.
40 HP Vibrator
Shortly after I finished the build, I took Overkill to a local bike shop and had her dyno’ed. Max power was just over 40hp ad 36lb/ft of torque. An 11% improvement over the stock numbers. Not too shabby for a 685cc carbureted thumper. One of the side effects of being a single cylinder thumper is that there is a lot of vibration. When I rode down to Roswell & Carlsbad a few weeks ago my right hand went numb. For a week after I got home I would wake up with it being numb. I should probably fix that.
I tried swapping out my 2″ Rox risers with a pair of 2″ anti-vibration Rox risers. That helped. On my ride to Front Sight, I found that I could ride for 8 hours before my hand went numb, instead of 5 – 6 hours. When I got home from my aborted AZBDR trip, I contacted Fasst Co to help me pick a setup for this trip.
Their handlebars are expensive, but if they further reduce, or eliminate the vibration, I think it will be money well spent. I spent a couple days going back and forth with Jason, their ergonomics expert, as we worked out a setup that would work for me. Eventually Chris, the VP, got involved and we settled on a Flexx Enduro 10 deg bend. I also went with their hand guards and anti-vibration inserts.
The whole setup is about an inch lower than what it’s replacing. I don’t know if that will be an issue or not. Time will tell.
Adhesive is required for attaching the clutch side grip.
Good-Bye HDB, Hello Doubletake
Saddly, the Highway Dirtbike handguards that I was using are not compatible with the Flexx handlebar, so they have to go. It also means the trick handguard mirrors have to go. Which is really not a bad thing.
The mirrors look great, but functionally, I was not impressed. Once I had the HDB handguards aligned the way I wanted, I found that the mirrors gave me a great view of the road, about two feet directly behind my rear wheel. They came off the bike as soon as I got back from my first test ride. Instead I went with an Adventure setup from Doubletake Mirrors. They are nice and stable at highway speeds and they fold down easily enough for the dirt.
I attempted the Arizona Backroad Discovery Route last week and ended up destroying my clutch in the attempt. I ordered a complete clutch rebuild kit from Barnett Clutches. About two days later, my parts showed up. It was good timing because it took me about that long to clean the mud off of Overkill. I’m not kidding. I’m was working on her today and I still found dried mud.
Anyway, back to the clutch. Step one, drain the oil and coolant.
The black stuff? That’s what’s left of the friction material that was on the clutch plates. It gets worse…
I didn’t take a pic of the oil filter, but it was caked with worn off friction material.
If I didn’t know better I would have thought the plates had been anodized black. I guess I overheated it a bit.
Note to self: The goal is to make it all the way Ushuaia Argentina and back with a minimum of operator induced failures…
When I put the Lynx R fairing on, I installed a Trail Tech Vapor gauge cluster. On my first ride it started acting up. Sometimes the speed would be accurate, sometimes it would max out at ~25mph, even with a GPS indicated speed of 70mph. The odd thing was that the odometer was tracking with the GPS trip meter. There was less than a 1% drift during my trip to Roswell & Carlsbad. That tells me the Vapor is getting the signal from the wheel speed sensor. It’s just not displaying the speed accurately.
I contacted Trail Tech’s tech support and explained the situation. They had me try a couple things, then sent me a new Vapor. I put it in yesterday. This new gauge cluster seems to be working great.
Oh and a quick pro-tip. The manual says that the odometer is permanent and non-resetable. That is not 100% true. To change the odometer reading, hold down all three buttons for three seconds to get to the configuration menu. Scroll to the tire size setting and change the tire size to 9110 then hold the right button for 3 – 5 seconds. Now scroll through the screens until it display “ODO” adjust your odometer value as desired. Once you’re done, you just wait 5 seconds for it to auto close the configuration menu. The tire size is not saved. It will revert to the original setting.
While I had my Lnyx R fairing off, I decided to tackle my USB charger. It died on my way down to Roswell and took the 5 amp fuse with it. The charger came with the Lynx R fairing, so I contacted Ian at Britannia Composites and he sent me a new USB charger.
When I pulled out the old one I heard something rattling around. That’s not supposed to happen. I cracked it open to see what the issue was. There is a big inductor on one side of the PCB and a capacitor on the other side. The inductor was only connected to the PCB by its leads. It didn’t take long for those leads to break, thus killing the USB charger and fuse.
Hmm, I wonder if the new one is missing its potting too? Lets crack it open and find out.
Looks like they put this one together correctly. Hopefully it will last longer.
Fuse Box & Chain Oiler
The PC-8 fuse box has a relay and a main fuse that are mounted separate from the main fuse box. Ideally, this sub-assembly should be mounted a close to the battery as possible. In its original location, it was directly under the battery. Unfortunately that location left it open to the elements. After my adventures over the last couple of weeks I decided that’s probably not the best idea. Time to move it to a more protected spot: under the seat.
There’s not enough room to mount the PC-8 fuse box under the seat, but there is enough to squeeze the relay and fuse block in there. And I didn’t even have to lengthen the battery connections. So electrically, nothing has changed.
While I was performing surgery on the PC-8, I decided to completely remove the chain oiler. The oiler is just one more thing that can break, and not really required. I’m going to be carrying a can of chain lube with me anyway, so out comes to oiler.
And finally we come to the tires. I ended up having to replace the rear tire before I left Pahrump. I’m not very impressed with the life of the stock Dunlop’s. I had about 2,800 miles on that tire and I was already at the wear marks. The front fared better. There is probably another 2,500 – 3,000 miles in it.
It took some doing, but I was able to find a replacement tire in Las Vegas. My goal was to have a Hidenau K60 Scout installed, but as far as I was able to tell, there wasn’t a single K60 in the Las Vegas area. I had to settle for a stock replacement. The good news is that it was cheap. $80 including installation.
Since I wasn’t able to get my K60 installed in ‘Vegas I ordered one from Revzilla. I also decided to replace the front tire. Again I planned on going with the K60, but Revzilla was sold out of the 90/90-21 tires. I went with the Mitas E07. I’ve never used this tire before. Hopefully it’ll hold up well. I had K60’s on my V-Strom and they were great.
If you’ve made it this far, thanks for following along. I leave on my RTW trip in about 30 hours, wish me luck!
Here’s a rough outline of what I have planned:
Stay tuned for more updates.